Elephants and sanctuary

I was on my way to Chitwan National Park. I had just spent a couple of days in the beautiful town of Lumbini, visiting the birthplace of Lord Buddha.

On arrival in the village of Chitwan, we made our way to the accommodation on the national park’s outskirts. That afternoon, we headed straight out to the elephant breeding centre, which had been established due to the depletion of elephants in Nepal. The centre provides a sanctuary for the elephants to give birth and nurture their young; they are not held captive here and are free to roam the jungle.  We were lucky to see a calf who was less than 24 hours old.

As we wandered around the sanctuary, a few boisterous and curious calves came over to say hello and check us out.  In their playful manner, they pushed us around and tried to stick their trunks in our pockets to see what you have to offer!

 

 

 

Chitwan National Park

 

An early night - and an earlier start!

Back at the resort that evening, there was time for a few drinks and some fabulous food before heading to bed in preparation for an early start the next day.

 

We set off at 5:30 am, taking a short walk to the Narayani River, where we met our next mode of transport – long, narrow canoes carved out from old tree carcasses. We climbed aboard one by one, precariously balancing ourselves so as not to capsize. Sitting extremely low and close to the water, we proceeded downriver for around one and a half hours, spotting wildlife as we went. The river is teaming with long-snouted Gharial crocodiles. Beautiful and majestic – but I have to confess to being a little nervous when they swan beneath the canoe.

 

 

 

Dug out canoe in Chitwan National Park

 

Good advice....

Now far enough into the jungle, we left our canoes to continue on foot. But not before some jungle training: 

1)      If you see a tiger, leopard, or other jungle cat, then maintain complete eye contact and back off slowly

2) If you see a Rhino within 15 feet, climb the nearest tree, but if you don’t have a chance and it starts to charge, stand your ground until it gets very close and jump out of the way at the last minute. Apparently, they can’t make sudden changes in direction. (I guess that all depends on how long you can keep your nerve).

3)      If an elephant comes within 15 feet and starts approaching you quickly, then turn around and run as fast as you can.

Amazing wildlife

We set out confidently through the 8-foot-high elephant grass. Until the ‘jungle training’ talk, my biggest fear had been facing a spitting King Cobra. But all my worries were put aside as we spotted sambar deer, wild boar, sloth bears, langur and rhesus monkeys, antelope, and many different bird species.  

Although we hadn’t seen any of our ‘potential threats at this stage, ’ we did come across some pristine rhino tracks and fresh tiger pooh, which indicated that both creatures could be nearby. 

Our brilliant guide told us to be silent and crouch down at every little sound. We were more than happy to comply! Imagine eight nervous travellers huddled together, crouched on the ground – Hmmm… If you look vulnerable to predators, they will leave you alone, right??? What happened to that all-important jungle training?  We didn’t want to end up as anyone’s dinner.




Dinner in Chitwan National Park

A tiger coming to tea?

As we made our way towards one of the lookout towers where we would stop for lunch, a thunderous roar echoed around us. Our guide excitedly told us that it was the roar of a tiger. An actual tiger! Where did it come from, how far away was it, and, more importantly, how hungry was it?

Chitwan is known to have a healthy and thriving tiger population, though sightings are rare. Whilst we didn’t catch a glimpse of this magnificent animal, I will treasure the sound of its roar!

From the lookout tower, we had an infinite view of the park, allowing us to appreciate the vastness of our lush surroundings.  After lunch, we nervously continued our trek for a few more hours before finally reaching our camp for the night.  The barbwire fenced camp consisted of several mud huts with thatched roofs. We were hosted by an incredibly hospitable Nepalese family who had a campfire going in no time.  A simple but exceedingly tasty dinner was served, and the Khukhuri Rum flowed. There was lots of storytelling, dancing, and all sorts of shenanigans; it was an enjoyable night, for sure!!  My new favourite phrase: Jangal Mein Mangal (fun in the jungle).

Rhinos in the night!

As I went to bed, I shone my torch into the hut doorway in time to see an orb spider scuttle past. Orbs are not dangerous and can grow to around 4-5cm in diameter. Whilst some poisonous spiders are in Nepal, this little guy was just minding his business and was no threat to anyone. However, I am not a spider fan (even the nice ones). I forgot all of my jungle training. I avoided eye contact and ran past as fast as possible, leaping into bed and tucking my mosquito net tightly around me.

 

At 4:15 a.m., we were awoken by our guide’s holler, ‘Rhino, Rhino.’… I dived out of bed (all thoughts of the spider had been forgotten) and quickly went outside. There was an enormous rhino just outside our compound. It may have been an earlier-than-planned wake-up call, but I think it was worth it.  

According to the WWF, rhinos remain critically endangered, with few surviving outside national parks. In Chitwan National Park, however, they are thriving. This is a true success story that can hopefully be replicated elsewhere.

Surrounded by wildlife!

As we were already awake there was no real point in going back to bed. Instead we sat and watched the world go by as the sun came up over the river. After breakfast we were again off on foot exploring the jungle and trying to consciously stay fifteen feet or more away from the Rhino’s and elephants which were peacefully wondering around collecting branches from the trees and letting out the occasional fanfare.

Later that morning we visited a crocodile breeding centre before hopping into our 4X4 vehicles and heading back to Chitwan Village.

On our way to Kathmandu

That evening, we played more cricket in the rain and watched a massive electrical storm as we sat on the terrace, discussing our last few days’ adventures.

The following day, we left Chitwan and headed for Kathmandu. Our bumpy five-hour journey was compensated by the stunning scenery surrounding us. Driving through the foothills of the Himalayas and catching a glimpse of the incredible Mount Everest was breathtaking.

Driving down the valley towards Kathmandu gave us a chance to gauge just how big the sprawling metropolis of Nepal’s capital was.  Our next experience was upon us, one that would overwhelm the senses, leaving us wonderstruck.

Nepal is blessed with an incredible diversity of natural beauty and cultural heritage, which is just waiting to be explored. Without a doubt, this is one of my favourite countries. –  See for yourself!!!

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